The Mexican flavor of the week, mezcal, can be summed up with the classic phrase: “Para todo mal, mezcal; for all the good too; and if there is no medicine, one and a half liters.”
“For all things bad, mezcal; for everything good, mezcal too; and if there is no medicine, one and a half liters”
At Taste of Mexico, we believe that understanding the history and production process of an ingredient, dish, or drink can increase your appreciation of it. This certainly happened to me with mezcal.
My first experience with mezcal was terrible. About 10 years ago, mezcal became very popular in Mexico City’s nightlife, and mezcalerías started popping up everywhere, such as Pharmacist which is still open today.
I used to order mezcal because of peer pressure, but honestly, I hated it. At first I found the strong and unpleasant taste of pure alcohol to be overpowering, not to mention how much I disliked the bitter aftertaste. My friends insisted that it was delicious, and I started to question their taste. Turns out, we were just drinking low-quality mezcal.
Years later, I was taken to the best mezcal bar, a now-defunct speakeasy Wild. They only serve mezcal and beer, and the music is spectacular. Someone treated me to mezcal, and I was blown away by its sweet, smooth, and delightfully smoky flavor. I asked about the place, and they said, “Ah, güey, El Tigre (the owner) has the best bottles of mezcal.” Who is this Tigre guy, where did he get this mezcal, and what happened?
The first time I met El Tigre at his new place, he served us some mezcal in the world’s smallest glass from a beautiful bottle. “This is the point of [a variety I don’t remember]try it,” he said. It was the most flavorful sip I’ve ever had. El Tigre explained what “puntas” were and why they tasted so strong, and I realized that I knew absolutely nothing about mezcal. I also think maybe I should hang out with my new friend El Tigre more and start learning the many ins and outs of the mezcal world.
What is mezcal?
El Tigre gave me the most poetic definition: “It is the essence of the earth.” Mezcal is a distilled alcoholic drink made from agave. It maintains most of the traditional and ancestral processes that have been used for hundreds of years. The agave is cooked in an underground oven, similar to a barbecue, and then manually crushed to extract its juice. This juice is collected in fermentation vats and patiently left to ferment with care. The name “mezcal” comes from the cooking process of the agave. It is a Spanish adaptation of “mexcalli,” a Nahuatl word meaning cooked maguey.
Mezcal Varieties
Think of mezcal like wine. Just like there are different types of grapes, there are different types of agave. There are about 150 types of agave in Mexico, but only a few are used to make mezcal, such as Espadín and Tobalá. There is also Cuishe, Madre Cuishe, Mexicano, and four types of Cupreata: Barranca, Gutiérrez, Vieyra, and Salinas. Other varieties include Mexicano, Tepesstate, Chuparosa, and Belatobe.
Just like wine, each of these varieties has a different taste. And yes, I think you should start trying them all to find out which one is your favorite.
Origins and Myths
Like many alcoholic drinks, mezcal is shrouded in legend. One of the most popular opinions states that mezcal is a gift from the gods to bring happiness to humanity. Aren’t they the best?
Another theory states that a lightning strike struck the agave plant, cooking it naturally, allowing ancient inhabitants to discover the taste of an early form of mezcal.
How do you know you’re drinking good mezcal?
I asked El Tigre how I can tell if I’m drinking good mezcal, and the answer was straightforward: by tasting it. But that doesn’t mean you end up like a fumigated spider in your favorite mezcaleria. There is a right way to taste it.
Dip a few clean fingers into your glass of mezcal. Rub your hands together, and bring your palms to your nose. You should be able to smell all the aromas of the agave and the ingredients used in the fermentation process, such as fruit, chilies, wood, or spices.
Then take the first sip; You won’t detect much. By the third mini sip, you’ll start to get all the notes.
How should you drink it?
“Just like your partner, with a little kissing,” El Tigre advises us. When it comes to mezcal, taking pictures is strictly prohibited. Given its high alcohol content, it is best to drink just a few glasses and not the entire bottle.
In some places, they may offer you orange slices with chili powder to go with your mezcal. It’s best to decline if you’re enjoying a fine mezcal, as the citrus flavors can overpower your palate and you won’t taste the full taste.
And always remember, drink responsibly, Amigos. Salud!
Maria Melendezis a food blogger and influencer in Mexico City.
